Fly Fishing Gear Reviews

So, there are a few different types of fly fishing reels out there that give you options on how fast they bring the line in.  A single action reel turns the spool in direct ratio with you turning the handle.  One crank is one turn.  These are the simplest and most common fly reels.  They are also the lightest because they have the fewest parts.  Another type of reel is the multiplying reel.  It adds a few gears in there to crank more revolutions of the reel per turn of the handle.  You bring your line in twice as fast, if not faster.  The automatic reel brings back your line with the push of a button.  Sounds great… but it is heavy and has more moving parts to fail.  The most recent addition to the fly reel family is the large arbor reel (Some manufactures have mid arbor fly reels as well).  The arbor is the hub or center of the reel.  This is still a single action reel, but the diameter is larger, so that you are actually retrieving more line each time you rotate the handle.  It is slightly heavier than the standard reel, but you also have the added bonus of reducing line memory.  This is when the line takes on the shape of the reel it was sitting on.  Obviously, the less straight the line is on the water, the more slack there is.  Mid and large arbor reels help this quite a bit.Reels also have different drag systems.  The idea is to smoothly slow down the speed of outgoing line when you have a fish on.  Think of the reel like a bicycle wheel and the drag system the break.  For about the last ten years or so, reel manufacturers have put most of their money into the design and marketing of the disc drag fly reel.  Most reels today are this kind.  Basically, the disc drag reel uses two pads that apply pressure to the reel creating friction and causing it to rotate slower, exactly like applying the brakes on my motorcycle.  The other kind of fly fishing reel that is much harder to find these days, but was your only choice not long ago, is the click and pawl reel.  These reels had a gear in the spool.  A piece of metal had constant pressure applied to it by a spring.  When the reel would rotate, it would click as the teeth of the gear pushed past that tiny piece of metal.  If we go back to the bicycle wheel analogy, think of a kid with a playing card in the spokes.  This is the same concept.  It is effective too because it creates even and consistent pressure.  It becomes much more challenging though when fly fishing for larger trout and steelhead.  That’s when palming becomes necessary (and difficult on some of those big hogs.)

Those are the basics on fly reels.  One last thing you need to consider is what fly rod it is going to be used on and with what kind of fly line.  Most reels are categorized by line weight just like rods.  So, for example, you are going to want to put a 6 weight reel on your 6 weight rod.  This insures you have the right amount of fly line and backing for the conditions you will be fishing.  Too small a reel for your fly rod means not enough line, too large a reel filled to capacity means you have too much and your fly fishing gear is going to be too heavy and unbalanced.

If you plan to use your reel in saltwater, it is best to have a fly fishing reel that is made for the salt.  Saltwater fly reels have a special coating to protect its precious innards. Either way, rinse your reel very well after a day in the ocean.  You may want to let it sit in fresh water for 30 minutes or so and then give it another rinse.  If you do lube your reel, be sparing with your oil.  I like using reel oil because it is reel oil.  Remember though, oil and grease are magnets for dirt and dirt can wear your parts faster.  Be very sparing with your oil.

Don't forget to take a look at  Leland Fly Fishing Outfitters and Riverbum.

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