Fly Tying

The Copper John is a brilliant searching pattern that is still pretty new to the fly fishing world.  John Barr invented this nymph a little over a decade ago and because of how productive it is you can't go into a fly shop anywhere in this country and not find one.  If you are looking for another nymph that catches trout, the Copper John is another must have.

If you were to pick this fly apart you'd see that it is a combination of basically three flies.  You will notice that the biots used for the tail are common to Prince Nymphs, the wire body is built and looks just like a brassie, and the thorax, wings and head are the spitting image of a pheasant tail nymph.  The end result is another fine fly that doesn't quite imitate anything in particular, but seems to attract the attention of most trout.  Some argue that the added weight of the bead head, the wire body and additional lead wraps under the thorax get this fly to the bottom quickly where the trout are feeding.

 INSTRUCTIONS

HOOK:  Standard Heavy Wire or 1x  (TMC 3679 or 3671)

HEAD:  Copper Bead

WEIGHT:  Lead Wraps (optional)

THREAD:  Black

TAIL:  Brown Goose Biots (Black is optional)

BODY:  Copper Wire (black, red, olive and green are optional)

THORAX:  Peacock Herl

WING CASE:  Black or Olive Thinskin with Pearl Mylar Flash (Thinskin is optional) With Epoxy

LEGS:  Partridge

Now even though thinskin is in the original recipe, I don't use it because I I find the flash to do the trick on its own.  Start with a beaded hook and add 3-6 wraps of lead just behind the bead making sure to use the size lead appropriate for the size hook (you can tie this as small as a size 20 if you like).  Now tie in the thread just behind the lead and secure the lead with it.  Wind down the shank and at the bend tie in your biots.  Remember to align them so they splay.  Use three loose wrapps so they don't roll on the hook, then secure with tight wraps to the lead.  Now tie in your copper wire, winding the thread all the way to the bend of the hook.  Wind your thread back to the lead.  Now, build the body with tight, even wraps of the copper wire - use your bodkin to make sure the wraps are tight and are touching - avoid gaps.  Tie off the wire and cut the excess.  Now, tie in your pearl mylar and secure it.  Take three strands of peacock herl and tie them in where the mylar is.  Twist the peacock strands so they make a loose rope and then wind them forward - this makes the peacock a little more secure.  Tie off behind the bead head.  Now tie in your Partridge legs.  A trick here is to hold the tip of the partridge and pull the bulk of the feathers away from the tip you are holding.  Cut that tip and you will have created a "V" at the end of the feather.  Use this "V" to line up your legs on top of the bead.  After one wrap you can adjust the length and position of the legs.  Now add another wrap to secure them.  Pull over the mylar flash and secure it with three wraps.  Pull gently and cut the mylar as close to the bead as you can so that there is minimal tag.  Now secure with another wrap or two before you whip finish.  Now you can add 5 minute epoxy over the mylar to creat a more pronounced wing case.  Add head cement and you are good to go.  

Remember this fly is heavy, so it likes to be fished on the bottom.  It's also a great dropper fly.  Just make sure the dry fly is big enough to stay afloat while supporting the weight of your Copper John.

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